Visit to Sir John Soane's Museum

We’re grateful to Jane Swithinbank for this excellent blog about our recent volunteers’ trip to the wonderful Sir John Soane’s Museum, Lincoln’s Inn Fields.

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I can't believe I have lived in London for so many years and had never visited this extraordinary museum.  Thank you Rachel for organizing this eye-opening Fulham Palace Volunteers' Outing.

Our excellent guide Philip Dickson managed to bring the whole history to life in just one hour and then we were left to wander at will amongst the treasures.

Sir John Soane was born the son of a bricklayer in 1753.  He was extremely talented and hard working and rose from quite humble beginnings to become one of the foremost architects of the Regency period.  Whilst at the Royal Academy he was awarded the prestigious Gold Medal and a bursary for a Grand Tour of Europe which inspired his lifelong interest in Classical Art and Architecture.

He married the love of his life who later inherited a large sum from her uncle who had been a very successful builder.  This together with his flourishing practice enabled him to buy the first of three houses in 1792 in Lincoln's Inn Fields.  He demolished and rebuilt this and subsequently did the same with the neighbouring two houses as they became available.  The family lived in the largest, central one surrounded by the most incredible collection of objects ranging from Ancient Egyptian antiquities and Roman sculptures to models of contemporary buildings including his own.  As a Professor at the R.A. he delighted in encouraging his students to study these treasures at first hand.

The house and museum of the British architect Sir John Soane (1753 - 1837), in Lincoln’s Inn Fields.

The house and museum of the British architect Sir John Soane (1753 - 1837), in Lincoln’s Inn Fields.

In 1824 he acquired one of the most important objects ever found in Egypt, the sarcophagus of Pharaoh Seti dating back to 1370 BC which weighs several tonnes and involved knocking down a huge chunk of the back wall of the house to get it inside!  It was meant for the British Museum but the price of £2000 was too steep so Sir John stepped in quickly.

Everywhere one looks are columns, statues and mirrors leading the eye to other exhibits which he was always changing around.

My favourite room was the 13'x12' Picture Room.  Amongst the 118 paintings are some by Turner (a personal friend) and Canaletto.  This number of pictures in a small space was achieved by the ingenious method of having panels which open to reveal yet more works on the backs of them and more panels which open up to show even more.

The Picture Room. Soane collected pieces by a range of artists, including Hogarth, Turner, Piranesi and Canaletto.

The Picture Room. Soane collected pieces by a range of artists, including Hogarth, Turner, Piranesi and Canaletto.

We are so fortunate that Soane had the foresight to leave these houses and works to the nation to be kept open and free for inspiration and education.

In my opinion it is a museum to visit often for short bursts as I did find it quite overwhelming after a couple of hours.  I am not sure how his wife and children could live normal lives permanently surrounded by so much.  One of his sons did end up in the Debtor's prison twice......but that is another story!

As a Palace volunteer you’re welcome to join us on any of our volunteer trips! The trips are complimentary and are advertised on the portal. Rachel organises four trips each year to heritage sites across London plus a coach trip to in late Summer time.